A Pleasing Pupusa
Platter
El Salvador Café Keeps It Fresh After 50 Years
By
Karen X Fritsche
(For The Los Angeles Downtown News,
March 9, 2005)
Even if you don't know what it is, it's fun to say "pupusa." The word just rolls off the lips, almost as pleasantly as when the real thing - if done right - hits your palate. In El Salvador they're available on practically every corner and now that Los Angeles, home to the largest Salvadoran community in the U.S., seems to be following suit, there are plenty of opportunities to get your pupusa on.
El Salvador Café and Grill, founded in 1950, is one of the best pupusa purlieus around. Located on the quiet, eastern edge of the Fashion District, this casual, inviting cafe hugs the corner of Pico and San Julian (one block west of San Pedro), with big windows and colorful murals. The atmosphere is casual, like a taqueria with a to-go counter, but the spacious, sun-drenched dining room also has tables, comfortable vinyl chairs and friendly waiters. From the open kitchen comes the spicy aroma of onions, garlic and chili powder, and the comforting sound of dough being slapped around by hand.
The lengthy menu features homemade soups, rotisserie chicken, sandwiches and even some Mexican classics such as tacos, enchiladas and chile rellenos. But one look at the crowded tables makes it clear: This place is all about pupusas.
Photo by Gary LeonardThese staples of the Salvadoran diet combine masa (corn flour) with water, kneaded by hand into thick, rounded tortillas, which are then filled with meat, beans, cheese and other ingredients. They are grilled and served steaming hot with curtido, a relish of shredded cabbage and carrots similar to cole slaw, only pickled. While these cheese Frisbees are unlikely to fly onto any diet menus, El Salvador Café serves them fresh, fluffy and light as air, without a hint of grease.
The most flavorful by far is the loroco pupusa ($2.25), which combines melted cheese flecked with loroco flowers from the squash plant. This green veggie has a slightly bitter taste that is unexpected; it also complements the saltiness of the cheese. The combination is sinfully scrumptious.
The plate-sized queso pupusa ($2.25), stuffed with California Monterey Jack cheese and finely minced bell peppers, absolutely oozes with gooey goodness and a hint of corn. The revuelta pupusa ($2.25) mixes cheese, pork, bell peppers, tomatoes and onions. Unfortunately the beans overpower the pork, which was difficult to taste.
There is life here beyond the pupusa. The platanos con crema y frijoles, (fried plantains, beans and cream, $5.50) is an enormous serving of plantains, plump and fried to perfection, with crispy edges and sweet, warm centers. Each bite crunches slightly, then melts. There's nothing watery about the flawless refried beans, which are thick, creamy and sprinkled with grated cheese. The divinely heavy crema, which is neither sweet nor sour, brings it all together.
Also winning is the yucca con chicharron, fried yucca root served with pork ($5.95). The yucca has the same consistency as potato, but a more distinctive, slightly sour flavor, and comes with several pieces of savory fried pork cooked in tomatoes and chili peppers. Both were a bit dry on their own, but excellent with the crema and salsa.
After watching a party of three walk in and order steak sandwiches, I felt compelled to try a sandwich de bistec ($5). The thinly sliced grilled sirloin is tender and served on a toasted, yet soft French roll with lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise. Those in the know dowse the combo in salsa.
Other Salvadoran specialties include: tamal de pollo, handmade tamales wrapped in banana leaves and filled with shredded chicken, garbanzos and red bell peppers ($2.25); pavo con arroz y ensalada, fresh roasted turkey breast served in a sauce of ground pumpkin and sesame seeds with salad ($7.50); and carne asada con chirmol, grilled steak in diced tomatoes, cilantro and onions with rice, beans and tortillas ($7.95).
For the reasonable price of around $20, two people can order a large sampling of tasty offerings and walk out stuffed. El Salvador Café has been serving up hearty, unpretentious food at its best for more than 50 years, making this fashion district restaurant a genuine trend-setter.El Salvador Café and Grill is at 575 E. Pico Blvd. (213) 741-2370. Street parking. Open daily 8 a.m.-7 p.m.
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